Start: Morgantown, West Virginia
End: Cincinnati, Ohio (actually across the river in Covington, Kentucky)
States: West Virginia, Ohio, Kentucky
A few months ago I saw a program on the Travel Channel about phantom animals or something like that, and one of the featured stories was the Mothman of Point Pleasant, West Virginia. Now if you are not familiar with the story, it is briefly this; during 1966-1967 there were numerous sightings of a large (perhaps 10 ft.) creature with glowing red eyes and wings in and around the area of Point Pleasant, particularly in the area known as TNT, home to a former munitions factory. Some were violent (one involved the killing of a dog) others merely frightening, and it culminated with the disastrous collapse of the Silver bridge over the Ohio River killing 46. There are a lot of theories, many involving government coverups of mutations caused by the munitions factory, others theorizing over a Shawnee burial ground. The Mothman Prophesies describes some of these, as well as the theory that the Mothman is a harbinger of doom.
Well you know I had to see this. Point Pleasant is a quintessential small town, and unfortunately like many small towns it is to a certain degree, dying. The downtown, about six blocks or so long has a 1950's throwback feel with old men shooting the breeze in rocking chairs and small shops and tree lined streets. Did I mention the twelve-feet tall shiny metal statue of a half-man, half-moth? Once all photo opportunities were exhausted we went in search of souvenirs at the The Point and found out more than we ever wanted to know, and then some. The proprietor, who both looked and sounded like Johnny Cash come back to life, was a former trucker, amateur artist, and a true believer in the enigma that is Point Pleasant. He had our ear for a good forty five minutes, telling tall tales and showing eerie photos. I happily bought a "Mothman for President" tee shirt and shot glass. He guaranteed if I filled it a few times I would see a Mothman, perhaps even two of them.
The most interesting feature of the town however was that there was so much in that tiny area. Along the river is a mural project depicting the town's history, which will eventually stretch six miles. A open air amphitheater on the Ohio hosts concerts and it seems like a place where the past is never left far behind. Tu-Endie-Wei State Park, which you will find if you follow the main street through downtown until you basically almost drive into the Ohio River (we came very close), tried to commemorate all of it. What drew us was the massive and unexpected obelisk in honor of the Battle of Point Pleasant, but there was also monuments to everything else that ever happened there (except the Mothman and the Silver Bridge collapse, which are up the street). Aside from a slight headache at the barrage of history, it is pretty sweet. It sits at the point where the Ohio and Kanawha rivers meet giving a panorama of water and the three bridges that cross it. We saw barges full of coal drifting along (somehow it irrationally exciting). I felt I more than got my money's worth from the visit.
Our first hotel of the trip (some places we couldn't find anyone to mooch off of) was the Radisson Downtown Riverfront, which was not only super-space age looking but very comfortable. Before dinner we went to Theodore M. Berry International Friendship Park along the Ohio (no we were not yet sick of Ohio riverfront parks). I had seen Kasmira of What I Wore Today (http://whatiwore2day.blogspot.com/) take her photos there and it seemed like a good place to spend some time in the evening, after all the attractions had closed. It was as interesting a park as I've ever been in, half nature half industrial with modern sculpture and creative spaces joined to show all of the continents.
Dinner was back across the river in Main Strasse, the Main Street of Covington. An area of strong German influence its now a hip and trendy gathering of bars, restaurants, and shops. Its a nice area just to walk, with the narrow streets and historic homes reminiscent of an actual European city. While looking for parking we also stumbled upon Mother of God Church, which is immediately recognizable on the Covington skyline and a symbol of home for those who live there. While it was closed for the day we made sure to take a photo opportunity nonetheless. As for dinner, oh luscious dinner at the Cock and Bull pub. I can give the Bavarian pretzels and Raspberry Wheat beer my highest recommendation. It also had a distinctly European feel, with a bar staff that didn't make you feel like a bad person for not immediately knowing what you wanted, helpful recommendations, and as I said superior beer and food.
A word about the third passenger on out trip you may see in photos, Eric/Skarsgard. A depiction of a fictional character from Charlaine Harris' books he is portrayed in real life by an actor by the name of Skarsgard. He is (in case you couldn't tell) a paper doll given to me for my birthday before we left. Along for the ride, like the Roaming Gnome of Travelocity fame, you may see him pop up from time to time, like today when he battled the Mothman.
